Basic shoemaking:
series index

This series of articles begins by explaining how the individual parts of a shoe upper are designed.

The principles behind pattern grading.

Knowledge of the principles behind last grading should help everyone in the shoe production chain.

Compared with other costs involved in shoemaking, the cost of upper materials is high.

It is recommended that all cut sections of uppers and finished uppers are clearly marked.

Why stitchmarking is required in the shoemaking process and how it is carried out.

Skiving reduces the substance (thickness) of the cut edge of an upper or lining material.

Describing the process used to back an upper with a lining or interlining.

Some uppers will require a preliminary shaping operation before the main forming process of lasting.

The topline (top edge of the upper) can be a very vulnerable area of the shoe.

Upper stitching is one of the more skilled operations within the shoe manufacturing process.

Investigating the ways stitching machines can be driven and the different types of motor available.

Choosing the right thread and needle is key to achieving the required results.

Examining the variety of stitches and seams used in footwear production.

Correct reinforcement in footwear is essential to avoid material failure during manufacture or wear.

There are several methods used in footwear manufacture to ensure that the shoe is held securely on the foot.

Putting buckles and touch-and-close fasteners under the spotlight.

The use of laces, slide fasteners, side release clasps, press studs and elastic.

Trims must be adequately affixed to footwear, each material having its own specific method of attachment.

Describing the various types of box toes used in footwear manufacture and how they are applied.

Completed uppers are sent to the ‘assembly line’, where the component parts are brought together.

The importance of backpart moulding and the different methods which are available.

All upper materials need correct storage prior to use and many also require suitable conditioning.

Reviewing the most widely used of all modern lasting systems – flat lasting.

Continuing our series on modern lasting systems, we now turn our attention to force/slip lasting.

Investigating the most common techniques used in producing string lasted shoes.

A consideration of the various skills involved in this long-established process.

Heat setting is a very important operation which can significantly add to a shoe's appearance and value.

Correct preparation of footwear components is essential to produce good sole bonding during construction.

A wide variety of sole cementing procedures are available.

A process which requires a particular method of construction.

The stitching of soles onto uppers is one of the oldest ways of attaching outsoles.

After adhesion and stitching, a third possible mechanism exists to attach soles to uppers – direct moulding.

A consideration of effective methods used to attach heels.

The various operations carried out in the finishing room.

Investigating the use of automation and computerisation.

The manufacture of PVC and PU wellington boots, slush moulded footwear, ‘jellies’ and EVA footwear.

Identifying key elements of an in-factory system.

There are many aspects to ‘quality’, which essentially means consistently meeting or exceeding expectations.

Many companies set up an in-house laboratory to demonstrate their commitment to providing quality products.

Footwear must be correctly and safely packaged and stored during transit and warehousing.